Category: Photography Basics > 4. Image Composition & Design Article ID: 4.13 Created: May 2026

Key Points in Brief

• The optimal focal length for portraits is 80–135 mm – wide-angle distorts facial features, telephoto flattens them
• The background should be unobtrusive and blurred – immediately remove distracting elements (e.g., trees appearing to grow out of the head) by changing perspective
• Shoot from the eye level of the subject – especially important for children

Explanation

Focal Length: The Most Important Technical Element

Why 85–135 mm?

• The longer focal length allows more distance from the subject → they behave more naturally
• Less depth of field → background automatically blurs
• Facial features appear more harmonious than with shorter focal lengths

Shaping the Background

The background can make or break a portrait.

Good background:

• Monotonous, uniform color, unstructured
• Blurred due to shallow depth of field (wide aperture + telephoto lens)
• Subject 1–2 meters away from the wall → no harsh shadows on the background

Poor background:

• Many details and textures competing with the subject
• Objects protruding from the head or body (trees, poles, church spires)
• Same color as the subject → subject blends into the background

Solution: Often a small change in perspective (a step to the side, slightly lower) is enough to remove a distracting background element.

When the background may remain visible: For environmental portraits (subject in their work or living environment), the background is important for the image’s message – e.g., a craftsman at a workbench, a child playing.

Perspective and Eye Level

• Eye level of the photographed person is almost always the best choice – natural, respectful, at eye level
• Worm’s-eye view (from below): Subject appears imposing, powerful, strong – but also arrogant
• Bird’s-eye view (from above): Subject appears small, humble, vulnerable
• For children: Definitely shoot at knee level or lower – from adult height you look down on them, making them appear smaller and less significant

Lighting

• Soft, diffuse light (cloudy sky, shade) → ideal for portraits, flattering, no harsh shadows
• Direct sunlight → harsh shadows under nose and chin → unfavorable; recommended to move into shade
• Indirect flash (bouncing off ceiling or wall) → soft, natural light, no red-eye effect
• Reflectors (white cardboard, white sheet, aluminum foil) → create soft additional light from any direction, cost-effective

Light stripes as an effect: Photograph the subject through a grid or blinds – resulting light and shadow stripes can create very interesting, artistic portraits.

Group Photos

• Take multiple shots – at least one person usually has their eyes closed or looks away
• Small groups: arrange loosely and naturally, not too rigid
• Large groups: taller in back, shorter in front; front row can kneel/sit for a more natural layering
• Focus on the sharpest person: focus on the eyes of the main subject

Child Photography – Special Considerations

• Photograph at the child’s eye level (kneeling, sitting, lying down)
• Photograph children in everyday situations rather than staging → more natural, character-rich images
• Use short exposure times (children move quickly) → camera’s “children” program or S/Tv mode with 1/250 sec or faster
• From a distance and unnoticed: more authentic than directly in front of the camera

Practical Tip

The most common portrait mistake: camera in landscape orientation and shooting from standing height. Solution: Rotate the camera to portrait orientation and get down on your knees (for children) or get to the subject’s eye level. At the same time: open the aperture to f/2.8 or f/4 and use a focal length of 85–135 mm. That’s enough for a noticeably more professional result – without studio equipment.